Antarctica 2016
In March of 2016, Carol and Gary Irwin journeyed for 15 days aboard the M.V. Ortelius to the amazing Antarctic Peninsula on a Cheesemans’ Ecology Safaris trip “Antarctic Peninsula Whales.” This trip was designed by Ted Cheeseman, in collaboration with the American Cetacean Society, and whale researcher Dr. Ari Friedlaender, to watch and study whales in some of the best whale feeding grounds in the midst of Antarctica’s stunning landscapes. We saw humpback whales, Antarctic minke whales, and orcas, and we visited penguin and seal colonies.
In addition to Ari Friedlaender, who is Associate Professor at Oregon State University’s Marine Mammal Institute, the scientific team onboard included Dr. Lars Bejder, Professor at Murdoch University, Perth, Australia and leader of Murdoch University’s Cetacean Research Unit and Fredrik Christiansen, a Research Fellow at Murdoch University.
Our trip leader Ted Cheeseman saw brilliantly to the needs of all on board, and his staff of experts gave fascinating lectures on such topics as whale biology and research, the history of whaling, seabirds, paleobiology, photography and much more. Our bodies and our brains were well exercised!
Each photo posted was were taken by Carol or Gary Irwin, on either a Fuji X-T1 camera or an iPhone 6s Plus. All video was taken on an iPhone 6s Plus.
Some photographs depict research conducted under the following permits granted to Dr. Ari Friedlaender: NMFS 14809 and ACA 2016-024 and/or permits granted to Dr. Fredrik Christiansen and Prof. Lars Bejder (Murdoch University), under permits from the Department of the Environment, Australia, the Environment Protection and Biodiversity Conservation Act 1999 (Cth) (EPBC Act) (Cetacean Permit: 2016-0001), Australia, and under an animal ethics permit from Murdoch University (O2810/16), Australia.
RESEARCH Observing scientific research up very close and learning from experts in their fields was a highlight of this trip. Ari Friedlaender placed video-recording suction-cup tags on whales to retrieve information as to their behavior and darted whales—using a crossbow and arrows—to get skin and blubber samples to determine the sex, population and body condition of individual whales. Lars Bejder and Fredrik Christiansen deployed drones to photograph whales from above to determine size. Ari and Lars biopsied and got drone footage of more than 25 whales.
Also onboard were National Geographic cinematographers JJ Kelley and Bryan Adams, photographer Carolyn Van Houten, and journalist Doug Fox who recorded the action. National Geographic is producing a new show, Deep Freeze, that will air on the National Geographic Channel in fall 2016. That will be exciting to see!
Note: To see photos individually, click on a photo and use arrows to move through them.
TAGGING AND DARTING WHALES VIDEO Here you can hear and see Ari, Lars and Fredrik in action and see National Geographic team of JJ Kelley, Byran Adams and Carolyn Van Houten filming. We extend huge thanks to Ari Friedlaender and his entire scientific team for their generosity in allowing us to observe and learn about their research.
WHALES One of the goals of the trip was to photograph as many whales as possible, especially tail flukes that are used to identify each individual. These photos are uploaded to a citizen-science database called HAPPYWHALE.COM, created by Ted Cheeseman. Since a whale’s fluke pattern is unique, much like a human fingerprint, each photo can be matched to others of the same whale providing a record of sightings over time. You can see the range of fluke coloring goes from almost pure black to almost pure white. The yellow pigmentation on both humpbacks and orcas is actually a coating of sea ice diatoms (algae) that builds up in the Antarctic waters and disappears when the cetacean migrates to warmer waters.
The first image below of a previously unknown whale was first posted by Carol Irwin and the whale has now been name CAROWL. Ted tells me that on this trip alone, we photo identified 108 humpbacks, while across the whole season from all boats there were 299 individuals, so we account for more than a third. Well done!
Note the very long, light-colored pectoral fins that a humpback has extended in the air. In the next image a fin is almost touching our Zodiac (and Gary!). In Dallman Bay, we saw this highly unusual white-sided humpback whale now known as Whitesides.
VIDEO OF FRIENDLY HUMPBACKS The following video gives a glimpse into the intimacy that can occur between species in this breathtakingly beautiful world. For over five minutes, two humpbacks went round and round and under our zodiac in Wilhelmina Bay. What a treat! Since there was also a minke whale passing by, this was a double treat.
ANTARCTIC LANDSCAPES The landscape of the Antarctic Peninsula is breathtaking. Glaciers meet the water’s edge, icebergs of all sizes and shapes fill the bays, while ice and snow cover the rocky beaches. The first photo is of a gigantic, breathtakingly beautiful and unusually carved iceberg. Our captain repositioned the Ortelius and circumnavigated this “cathedral” so we could see it from all gorgeous sides.
PENGUINS & OTHER BIRDS The focus of this trip was whales, not birds. To see large numbers of nesting penguins and chicks on shore one must visit earlier in their breeding season. But we did see many penguins who were still on land completing their molting process, which they must do before they can go to sea. Among other birds that I photographed were Antarctic skuas and South Polar skuas preying on penguins, southern giant petrels, Wilson’s storm petrels, blue-eyed shags, and Antarctic terns in flight and on ice.
Because penguins have no mammal predators when they are on land, they have no fear of humans, but rather an apparent curiosity. Their major predators are the skua (a bird) on land and the leopard seal in the water. See how these gentoo penguins on Petermann Island are very curious and unafraid of photographer Geert.
SEALS We saw crabeater, Weddell and leopard Seals, both on ice and in the water foraging for penguins. The first three images are of leopard seals, with their reptilian-like heads, large gapes and massive teeth. They are known to be skilled predators. The first seal was resting peacefully on an iceberg, which we approached closely in our Zodiac. The third image is of a leopard seal that was swimming in the water by an iceberg. It became very interested in our Zodiacs, circling them for a long time, and even rising up and briefly putting his head against the tube of our Zodiac. It was most exciting!
FRIENDS We count fellow adventurers—passengers, scientists and staff—among our old and new friends. Here are images of but a few of them. To all fellow travelers who may be seeing this website, we are so happy to have shared these magical days with you. Many thanks for sharing with us your adventuresome spirits and your friendships. Happy trails, Carol and Gary
