Nova Scotia 2016
September 11-18, 2016, Gary and I went on a glorious Backroads walking/hiking trip to Nova Scotia, Canada. We and 17 other guests were led by fantastic guides Celeste Black and Barret Sheeshka with Thomas Luk as support, while we explored this fascinating maritime province. We stayed in lovely casual inns, walked streets and hiked trails, witnessed the incredible tides (sometimes as high as 45 feet!) on the Bay of Fundy, and traveled back in time by boat to the islands of Tancook and Ironbound. We were abundantly fed as Celeste and Barret laid out “Snackroads” treats each morning and often prepared a picnic lunch. We dined in wonderful restaurants where we had delicious fresh farm-and-sea-to-table delicacies. We learned local history and lore and we enjoyed local entertainment. Best of all we traveled with kindred spirits that became our new friends.
Right up front we want to extend our heartfelt thanks to Celeste, Barret, Tom and all fellow travelers for making this one awesome adventure!
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Be sure to watch the videos at the end.
On day 1, our first stop is at Beverly’s Tangled Garden in Grand Pre in the Annapolis Valley, where we sample delicious jams, jellies and liqueurs made from herbs and fruits grown on her property. We walk the beautiful flower-bordered labyrinth and have our first of many delicious picnics. Next we walk to the Grand Pre Museum and Historic site where we learn much about the history of this area, including the sad story of the British removal of Acadiens. Next we walk along the dikelands to Victoria’s Historic Inn, our hotel in Wolfville. Along the way we encounter local college kids who have been enjoying Nova Scotia’s version of mud-sliding in the rich red mud of the Minas Basin. We are told this is called “doing the pudding.”
On day 2, we drive to Blomidon where we hike high above the Minas Basin, an arm of the Bay of Fundy, which experiences the world’s largest tides (as great as 45 feet!).On our drive there we see lobster boats floating at high tide and on our return several hours later they are way down on the mud. In the evening we dine al fresco on a lovely terrace at the Luckett Winery.
On day 3, we shuttle to beautiful Kejimkujik National Park, where we hike along the gorgeous shoreline. Then we travel to our home for one night, the White Point Resort, which Celeste and Barret tell us is “the Nova Scotian version of the Catskills resort of “Dirty Dancing” fame.” No dancing for us, but we do dine at the nearby Quarterdeck, where we are treated to a private musical treat by Backroads’ friend Bruce, a wonderful fiddler and singer.
On day 4, we shuttle to Green Bay to the Best Coast Coffee Gallery. We hike along the shores of Broad Cove and return Best Coast Coffee for an amazing lobster boil feast. After lunch we hike to Gaff Point, a loop trail with sweeping coastal views and gorgeous shale as well as rounded rocks along the waters edge. In the late afternoon we shuttle to the historic and incredibly picturesque town of Lunenburg, where the Lunenburg Arms is our home for the next two nights. The view of Lunenberg as we arrive is breathtaking. An osprey can be seen on its nest with Lunenburg across the water.
Day 5 is an amazing day! We take to the water of Mahone Bay with its 365 islands aboard the Eastern Points with Captain Walter and First Mate Kevin, who share fascinating local lore. Wonderful views of Lunenburg’s waterfront are available from the water. We see the Bluenose II, replica of the famous Bluenose fishing and sailing yacht. We visit the sparsely populated (maybe 100 people) Tancook Island where we stroll backward in time past the one-room school house, painted houses, Hillary’s Wishing Stone filled with treasures, and Angela’s Sea Mist with her sea dragon and pig with wings. Next we visit East Ironbound Island with even fewer inhabitants and see its lighthouse built in 1870, the weathered fishing buildings and equipment. Our arrival and departure on the island is dramatic, as the only way to get on the island is to make our way across another boat and climb a ladder. Exciting and worth a story! Tonight we have cocktails on the water in glorious late afternoon light and dine on delicious fare at Rime, one of Lunenburg’s finest restaurants.
On day 6, our final day in Lunenberg, we are treated to a guided historical walk by Sheila, an enthusiastic 8th generation local resident. We learn that Lunenburg’s history dates back to the 1600’s. Today it is very much a town where the past meets the present. Seventy percent of the original buildings from the 18th and 19th centuries continue to greet visitors with their colorful facades. As a result, the town has been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site – a fitting tribute to the lasting history nestled alongside this tranquil harbor. While exploring the town on our own we meet some local artists who were drawn to Lunenburg for it’s lifestyle and beauty. At noon we have our final fantastic Backroads picnic before we are shuttled back to Halifax and say goodbye and wish each other safe travels and happy memories.
VIDEOS
Fiddler Bruce sings a sea shanty.
Here is vidence that we did in fact hike.
Celeste tells legend of Oak Island hidden gold.
Walter tells about East Ironbound Island.
Arriving and departing Ironbound.
Celeste and Barret present our last gourmet picnic.
Jim Harris speaks for all of us in thanking Celeste and Barret (and Tom as well) for a fabulous trip!